EMY, M. L'art de bien faire les glaces d'office; ou les vrais principes pour congeler tous les raffrichemens. La maniere de preparer toutes sortes de compositions, la facon de les faire prendre, d'en former des fruits, cannelons & toutes sortes de fromages… Paris: Le Cerc. 1768.
12mo. Contemporary mottled calf, spine with raised bands, gilt centre tools and lettering; pp. viii + 242+ [iii], engraved frontispiece of cherubs making ices, 2 plates of moulds and utensils; binding a little rubbed, occasional light spotting, notes in ink to flyleaf, very good.
First edition. A rare and charming work on making ices, ice creams (fromages) and mousses. Not much is known about Emy, but he was probably employed by an important family and, as he uses the title 'officier', would have been head of a department of professional ice cream makers. This book is written for other professionals, as it describes intricate processes and new and rare ingredients, including a very early reference to pineapples. Previous to this book, ice cream recipes were few and unsatisfactory; this is the first work to deal with ice cream as a serious culinary discipline.
Vicaire 328; Quinzio, Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making (University of California Press, 2009), pp. 33-40.